ATTN: Hooper, JRCivic, rjaffey, and other SC Gurus

[MouhadIb]

Phil,

We are going to check the car out and it wiring this weekend. IF we can't figure out what is wrong with it I will have to bring it to Mobile and leave it with you so that you can fix this problem since you did the install and know where everything is. I'll let you know.


BlownAway,

Yeah we checked to see if it is making a good ground connection and it is.

Well the only reason it idles ok is because when we took it to the dealership my friend adjusted the idle so that it doesn't kill when I have the AC on. Also I repalced the IACV with another one and it has the same effect on the car.


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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!


C-SpeedRacing

[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited February 06, 2001).]

[BlownAway]

As stated above:
"I was able to take the IACV out of the car and it definitely is the problem since we saw with our own eyes that it works properly"

Could you clarify on how you confirmed the IACV was working properly?

IMO:
First, as JRcivic stated, this control valve should not see more than 5v.
Second, this is a control valve, not a "on/off" solenoid valve, meaning that the ECU sends a pulse of voltage at varing frequency to control a variable position of this valve. 12v may make it activate, but it may not activate correctly/quickly with rapid pulses of 5v. I'm surprised the dealer didn't suggest replacing the IAC valve - they seem to fail often in other Honda engines.

About this IACV 5v pulse stuff, this is only a theory, after studying a couple Helms manuals (95 GSR & 89 Civic). They show cross-sectional views of the valve, but don't tell how the input signal controls the position of the valve. Pulses seem to be the best guess to me.

[This message has been edited by BlownAway (edited February 06, 2001).]

[MouhadIb]

Update:

My boy Hassan and I tinkered with the connections again on the car to find out about this code. After looking over we had two choices.

1. Check ALL the connections to make sure that they are all well/properly connected.

2. Take the blower apart and reconnect everything.

Well once we read over TurboGSR's post we did the easiest thing and decided to swap te IAT sensor plug and the IACV sensor plugs........

We turned the car on and IMMEDIATELY the idle raised over 1K like it should and then it idled back down to 750 rpm. Like the choke is SUPPOSED to work. THe fan even turned on!!! I had not seen this in a LONG TIME!!!

Well, we let it run for a little bit and then decided to find out what code it was throwing since the CEL was still on. Now it's throwing code 1 but NO MORE CODE 14!!!

After about a YEAR'S worth of figuring out why this thing was throwing this code it was jsut as simple as that!!!

Would it be that the O2 sensor is bad because the car had been running rich all that time? Also where can I get a wideband O2 sensor for a good price?

Thanks to everyone that has helped me on this Year long problem!

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!


C-SpeedRacing

[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited February 13, 2001).]

[strng1dah]

dont you hate when the answer is the simplest one. Congrats on getting it working right finally.

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2000 GSR [email protected]

[hooper]

I hang my head in shame.
In my defense, I would have figured it out with more time.

[BlownAway]

Shame, shame, shame.
Those connector wires are color coded, and you had the Helms manual right there.

I wonder what's pluged into the O2 sensor wire.

[MouhadIb]

Don't sweat it Phil. Cause one way or the other, if we didn't figure out, you would have had to! Hehehhe! Besides we laughed when we realized it!

But now we have the O2 sensor CEL on. Can the O2 be bad or should I try and reset the car once more to see if the light goes away?

Also where can I get a wideband O2 if we find out that it's bad?

Cheers.

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!


C-SpeedRacing

[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited February 14, 2001).]

[hooper]

BlownAway,
Again, with more time, I would have figured it out. I had the car for a week, working on it only in the evenings. Jay's had his car back for months, and couldn't find it, even with the help of certified tech. Plus, that was my first Integra blower install. I've done several civics. I know, the book was right there, but it wasn't MY book. I know MY book, for MY car, intimately.
Jay,
You could try to reset the ECU again. But it'll probably throw a code again. I had to replace mine after running too rich for too long.
You might try an aftermarket bosch, or something. I might even consider getting a good single wire O2S, as well as a new OE sensor, and weld in a bung just to run your A/F ratio meter. That way the factory ECU sees what it needs to, and the A/F meter can read one of it's own that may have a better resolution. Just a thought.

[Tom Civic]

dang.....i hope everything goes well for man. Hmm..try replacing the o2? if u run rich too much, it could destroy it.

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Houston, TX
1999 FBP Civic EX auto SUPERCHARGED Performance: Jackson Racing Supercharger w/fuel pump
Air Intake w/ Hiper Filter, Heat Shield Thermal Research & Development Cat-Back Exhaust, Accel Thundersport +300 Plug wires, Nuespeed Sport Springs, APC Rear Strut Tower Bar, APC Breather Filter, VTEC Light
www.geocities.com/tom_civic99

[MouhadIb]

Okay so here is my question/problem now. Since the plugs were reversed/corrected......the sensor that had been tapped in from the JR Relay and another soursce is now on the IACV.

This shouldn't be this way should it? What are the steps I need to take in order to fix this problem so that I have the proper connections.

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers

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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!


C-SpeedRacing

[This message has been edited by MouhadIb (edited February 17, 2001).]